Folds for Clamp-Dye Resist
Online Registration Form
Itajime shibori, or clamp-resist dyeing, is based on wooden boards held on either side of accordion folded cloth, then dyed. This class is an in depth exploration of how the different folds, and the location, shape, and size of the wood boards, influence the overall pattern. At least fifteen different folds will be demonstrated and we will use Procion MX fiber reactive dyes on silk and cellulose fibers (cotton, rayon, Tencel, hemp and linen). Two yards of silk organza will be supplied for degumming. You will leave with dozens of dyed examples and the ability to further explore your personal pattern vocabulary.
About the Artist
Elin Noble has spent more than 30 years investigating traditional and contemporary dye techniques, in particular Japanese itajime shibori (clamp-dye resist). She is the author of “Dyes & Paints: A Hands-On Guide to Coloring Fabric,” winner of the “Best How-To” book award. Elin has a BFA in Fiber from the University of Washington, and was the former Lab Manager at PRO Chemical & Dye. She has appeared on PBS and lectured and conducted workshops across North America and internationally, most recently in Tilburg, Netherlands. She has been nominated for “Teacher of the Year” award by Professional Quilter Magazine. She won the Quilt Japan Prize at Quilt National ’13 and received a 2011 Artists Fellowship Finalist award from the Massachusetts Cultural Council. Her work has been included in numerous national and international exhibitions. Her exhibition Vox Stellarum is featured in the Robert Hillestad Textiles Gallery from June 6th – September 16th, 2016.
Department of Textiles, Merchandising $ Fashion Design
Home Economics Building, room 22
East Campus, University of Nebraska-Lincoln
Lincoln, NE 68583
For registration questions, please call the Department of Textiles, Merchandising & Fashion Design at 402-472-2911. The office is open Monday – Friday, 9am – 5pm.
For questions about the class or materials, contact Elin Noble via email or phone:
We recommend setting aside up to $250 for materials, depending upon what you may already have on hand. The majority of cost is in your selection of fabric. Please refer to the materials list for more detail.
A UNL visitor parking permit is necessary for visitors to park on-campus during the weekdays. A 3-day visitor parking permit can be purchased from the TMFD department for $16 at the time of registration. Unfortunately, the visitor parking permit is not available to current UNL students, faculty and staff.
Street parking is free and available in the neighborhood south of Holdrege St. (approx. 5 minute walk to campus).
You may bring your own bag lunch, or grab one nearby. Close restaurants include Valentino’s Pizza and Cultiva Coffee on N. 35th St. and Holdrege St.
If you will be attending the workshop from out of town, Lincoln has numerous hotels at a range of reasonable rates. The downtown area offers dining options and entertainment during the evenings, and is within a 15-minute drive to East Campus. The East Campus area features the local arboretum and the historic Havelock neighborhood, as well as a shorter commute. It will be your responsibility to arrange housing.
General Public: $350
UNL Student: $300
Visitor Parking Permit: $16
Meals – to be determined by student
Housing – tbd by student
MasterCard, Visa or Discover
Payments can be made online at: Online Registration Form
Refund policy: Cancellation before September 1 is subject to a $100 cancellation fee. After Sep. 1, 2016, the registration fee is non-refundable.
What we provide
- Dyes and chemistry for dyeing, as well as degumming silk
- One piece of Silk organza per student, 2 yards
- Drying system and clothespins for hanging fabric to dry in a safe space
- Relevant handouts
- Wet lab with ample table space for students to work
- Sewing machine for testing pattern folds on paper
What you need to bring (please put your name on your supplies)
From Elin Noble:
Please email or call [Elin] with ANY class questions! email@example.com/(508)287-6258
Scissors for paper and to snip fabric.
Permanent black marker for marking your name on your cloth.
CLAMPS: Any clamping devices you wish to bring (c-clamps, bulldog clamps, squeeze/spring clamps, ratchet or quick release clamps, bag clips, etc.) When looking for spring clamps – choose the plastic ones with the metal inside instead of the clamps that are mostly metal with rubber tips. The folded fabric AND shaped blocks must fit between the jaws of the clamps. I use 6” and 9” clamps the most, and I like the smaller ones, too.
SHAPES: Wood or Plexiglas shapes to clamp the fabric in between. Bring round, square, and rectangle shapes. You need each shape in pairs. Bring at least 2 sets of each shape, for example 4 rectangle shapes. They can be different sizes of rectangles, as long as two are the same size. The shapes should be approximately 2"-3" (5-10 cm) on one end -- square or rectangular. Cut your own out of any type of wood (even plywood) or Plexiglas. You can get them as shapes at JoAnn Fabrics or Michaels. Bring additional shapes and sizes if you wish.
- I will bring a selection of shapes to share. If you are flying, you don’t need to bring wooden shapes.
- I have found plastic shapes on the Internet. TAP Plastics is one company I have purchased from: http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/plastic_rods_tubes_shapes
- We will methodically explore folds and the position of the clamp in relation to the fold. Many different shapes are not necessary because each shape will give you a lot of patterning potential.
8 or more pair of bamboo, plastic, or stainless steel chop sticks
Part of a roll or pad of rice paper to make and test (and help remember) folds and block placement possibilities.
Roll of paper towels and sponge for cleaning up around your table.
Small spray bottle, such as a plant mister to dampen fabric.
Clothes pins - a generous hand full.
Rubber bands – a generous hand full.
Rubber gloves for dyeing. Casabella or Playtex-type household gloves that are at least 4”-5” (10-12 cm) above your wrist.
Tape measure or ruler.
2 or 3 storage tubs or bins, any size: shoebox, under the bed size, or deep storage bins. We will use these for dye baths, and are much easier to use than buckets. I will bring a selection of tubs and bins with me to share. If you are flying, you don’t need to bring tubs or bins.
Smock/apron, work clothes, even old shoes.
Paper or notebook and camera.
FABRIC: 5-8 yards/meters of cellulose fabric. You can bring cotton, linen, rayon, or any blend of these. Cotton PFD (prepared for dyeing) white 100% mercerized cotton is ideal. Cut 3 of the yards into 1 yard lengths, then cut the 1 yard length into 3 pieces lengthwise into pieces that are approximately 14”x36”. Mark your name on the edge of the cloth with the permanent black marker.
- Machine wash your fabric in HOT 140 F (60C) water with synthrapol and soda ash. Rinse thoroughly and hang fabric to dry or dry in a clothes dryer without drier or fabric softener sheets.
- Dharma Trading: #CPC mercerized cotton print cloth, #CC110 combed cotton, #KC45 or #CK60 Kona cotton, #BHC harem cloth, #LIN 21 bleached linen, #ORG45 or #ORG55 sik organa (http://www.dharmatrading.com/fabric/cotton/cotton-fabrics.html)
- PRO Chemical & Dye: mercerized cotton sheeting (#100 bleached or #175 unbleached), #200 cotton broadcloth (http://www.prochemicalanddye.com/home.php?cat=325)
- Testfabrics: #400M cotton print cloth, #419 broadcloth http://www.testfabrics.com/products.php?catID1=TWpBPQ==&catID2=1
- Thai Silks (or Exotic Silks for wholesale accounts and volume purchasing): #15GA-000 organza, #15GA-102 square organza (https://www.thaisilks.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=organza)
Things that are handy to have
- Needle point tracing wheel.
- Dye equipment: whatever you have - set of measuring spoons, measuring cups, syringes, graduate cyclinders, large spoons or sticks for stirring dye baths, etc.
- Bring as many storage tupbs/bins as convenient: 1-15 liter size (or larger) to use for dye baths. No buckets.
- Old towels to use for clean-up that you don't mind getting dye on.
- See through ruler.
- 3-in-1 Color Tool by Joen Wolfrom to use as a color mixing reference guide.
- Dyes & Paints to use a reference guide.
Please email or call Elin with ANY class questions! firstname.lastname@example.org/(508)287-6258
"The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes,
but in having new eyes.”
— Marcel Proust